- 1. Mandarin Collar/Cheongsam Collar
- 2. Rolled Collar/Turndown Collar
- 3. Peter Pan Collar
- 4. Sailor Collar
- 5. High Neck Collar
- 6. Ruffle Collar(Ruffle)
- 7. Jabot Collar and Cascade Collar
- 8. Cross Collar
- 9. Bertha Collar
- 10. Lapel Collar(Jacket/Coat Collar)
Hello! Today's blog will show you an overview of the most popular collar types in Lolita Fashion. This will definitely teach you more about Lolita Fashion and how to choose a collar that suits you best!
LET’S START WITH THE BASICS:
The stand collar:
This collar fits around the neckline and as the name suggests stands up. (Mandarin Colar/Cheongsam Collar, High Neck Collar, Ruffle Collar, Band Collar)
The roll collar:
The roll collar is a stand collar that folds over. This is the type of collar on most business shirts. (Turndown Collar)
The flat collar:
Many different styles of collars fall into this bracket but whatever their shape, cut, or fabric might be, they lie flat against the main fabric of the shirt. The peter pan collar is a good example of this. (Peter Pan Collar, Sailor Collar, Bertha Collar, Jabot and Cascade Collar, Lapel Collar)
-By Types of Collars
Choosing the right collar will ensure that you enhance your facial edge while blurring any imbalances. So, let's continue onto the meat of this blog!
Mandarin Collar, Band Collar, and Choker Collar are all Stand Collars. Among them, the Mandarin Collar is the most popular.
A Mandarin Collar is a short unfolded stand-up style collar on a shirt or jacket. It has curved edges at the front which is parted, creating a slit in the middle. It was adapted from the traditional Manchu or Mongol-influenced Asian garments. Since Mandarin Collar is a type of stand-up collar with an Asian influence, you can also call it a Cheongsam Collar.
- A traditional Mandarin collar shirt in the early 1900s
Modern Asian-styled western dresses often have Mandarin Collars. Furthermore, Mandarin collars are also often used to achieve a casual aura due to their simplicity.
Meanwhile, in Lolita Fashion, standing collars are mostly used for Qi Lolita or Lolita tops with a Minimalism style: All Qi Lolita shown in the following pictures has a stand collar. Some of them have a Chinese knot button front.
Additionally, in Lolita Fashion, stand collars are often used in a Lolita Blouse, Top, False collar, etc. as you can tell from the pictures below.
- Lolita Blouses with a stand collar:
- Lolita Tops & Fake Collars with a stand collar:
Here are some Lolita coordinations that has a stand collar:
Rolled Collars/Turndown collars, also called Prussian collars and Ghillie collars, were once common in Military uniforms and Mao suits.
- Mao suit
Turndown collars are mostly used in Military Lolita:
1. A style of Lolita that builds off themes of classic military uniforms, usually more formal style uniforms. It is mainly used with Classic and Gothic Lolita.
2. Dresses often include buttons, pins, straps, ties, and pockets. They are often in black or green but have also been seen to be red or blue.
3. Coords often include jackets with shoulder decorations and large pins, and hats similar to those that were often worn by commanders or generals.
4. Many Military Lolita coords often include the use of a prop, often a cane or a gun.
Lolita Blouses with a turndown collar are not only used for Military Lolita but often for more elegant dresses, like the dresses below:
A Peter Pan collar is flat, small, and soft in design with rounded corners. It is cut to fit around the neckline, following the curve, and lying flat upon the torso. It can be made either as one part with a front-fastening bodice or in two parts to accommodate aback fastening while retaining the front opening. The collar has been mainly associated with children's wear since the 1920s.
Peter Pan Collars are named after the collar worn by Maude Adam in her classic 1905 performance as the lead role, Peter Pan, in J.M.Barrie's novel.
- Maude Adams as Peter Pan, wearing the Peter Pan collar:
In Lolita Fashion, Peter Pan Collars are quite a popular collar for their ultra-femininity. You can see them in almost all Lolita sub-styles like Sweet Lolita, Classic Lolita, Gothic Lolita, and so on.
A Lolita Top with a Peter Pan Collar is also very easy to coordinate with different JSKs or SKs.
A Peter Pan collar can give you a vibe of having a long neck and small shoulders:
By the way, a Puritan Collar and a Pointed Flat Collar are similar to a Peter Pan Collar.
A Puritan Collar is a larger flat collar. This collar falls flat from the neckline and is usually wide enough to extend to your shoulders. It is most often found in blouses and old-school dresses and can be worn with brooches.
A Pointed Flat Collar is a narrow-cut collar with squared ends at the center front of the collar dropping from a round neckline.
A Sailor Collar(Middy Collar) is a broad flat collar having a square flap across the back and tapering to a V in the front. It is made of square panels that fold down from the neckline.
A Sailor Collar is based on sailors' uniforms. This style was made popular in the Victorian era for children.
- Prince Albert Edward in a sailor suit(1846):
In Japan, Sailor Collars are commonly used in a Sailor Fuku("sailor outfit").
The Sailor Fuku is a common style of school uniform worn by female middle school students, traditionally by high school students, and occasionally, elementary school students. They are so common that the image of the sailor outfit has evolved to be strongly associated with youth and female adolescence in Japanese popular culture.
- Japanese school students in Sailor Fuku:
This kind of school uniform is modeled in appearance similar to that of the European-style naval uniforms. So, you can also see that people call it a navy collar.
- A British royal navy uniform in World War 2:
In Lolita Fashion, Sailor Collars are often used for Sailor Lolita.
Sailor Lolita is a style of Lolita that is very much inspired by Japanese sailor uniforms and nautical motifs.
Sailor collars, dark blues, and whites are often key factors in recognizing this style.
Tops with a sailor collar are usually for JK uniforms. JK uniforms are also a symbol of youthful energy in Japanese pop culture. Because its iconic sailor collar always reminds people of the adorable high school girls.
A High Neck Collar is a stand-up collar that covers all or most of the neck. The height of the stand-up may vary. The collar may roll down or bunch up under the neck.
The high neck collar can be folded or rolled up. If folded, you can call it Turtleneck Collar but it can still cover most of your neck. A turtle-neck is typically a knit shirt or sweater with this kind of collar.
A High Neck Collar was popular among women in Edwardian times.
- Edwardian girls in the high collar(in the 1900s):
In Lolita Fashion, High Neck Collars are commonly used for a vintage Lolita style or an Elegant/Classic lolita dress:
High collars can add elegance to a blouse and are normally used for warmth in winter. Just like Lolita Tops such as Blouse, Sweater, and Winter T-shirts. In Lolita Blouse, a band collar with ruffles is often used to achieve a high neck collar.
Ruffle Collar is a high-standing pleated collar popular in the Renaissance era and the late 17th century. A gathered or pleated piece of fabric forms the 'ruff' around the neckline. And it was made of starched linen or lace. They were also known as "Millstone Collars" after their shape. It became popular again in the early 19th century.
Modern versions of the ruffle collar tend to have smaller heights often of just 1 inch (2.5cm).
In Lolita Fashion, ruff collars are very frequently used for they can bring a vibe of noble and elegance to a Lolita dress or blouse.
Ruff Collar can be combined with a band collar or a mandarin collar to achieve a more gorgeous look, like the examples below:
The basic band collar is a straight or slightly curved collar cut in the straight fabric direction. It can be fastened in the front or back. It is sometimes referred to as a stand-up collar.
Meanwhile, when combined with a Mandarin collar, a ruffle collar will make the blouse for a traditional Victorian lady:
Jabot is a kind of falling collar. It's a fall of lace or cloth attached to the front of a neckband and worn especially by men in the 18th century.
Jabot Collar is a pleated frill of cloth or lace attached down the center front of a woman's blouse or dress. Lace ruffles fall down from the neckline onto the chest forming a decorative frill at the front of the shirt or blouse.
A Cascade Collar is similar to a Jabot Collar but it tends to have more frills like a waterfall from the center front of the neckline. It was inspired by the style of the 19th Century French monarchs. This exaggerated and showy collar has pleats, lace, or ruffles down the front and it is often adorned with a brooch. It's usually made of fabrics such as chiffon or silk for its soft flowing
In Lolita Fashion, Jabot Collar or Cascade Collar are often used in a Victorian-styled or Elegant Gothic Lolita dress.
Cross Collar is often seen in Wa Lolita(combination with Japanese kimono) and sometimes in Han-styled Qi Lolita(combination with Chinese HanFu).
A Cross Collar can also be used in matching Lolita Top with a Qi/Wa Jumperskirt.
Bertha Collar is a wide, flat, and round collar which is often of lace or sheer fabric. This collar was worn with a low neckline in the Victorian era in which it resurrected in the 1940s.
- A Morden Bertha Collar & Oil Painting of Mrs. Harris Prendergast with a Bertha Collar(1814 - 1859):
Bertha Collar is often used in Hime Lolita, a bridal Victorian dress, or a fancy evening Lolita dress.
The Bertha Collar in Lolita Top also has an off-the-shoulder design and a vibe of princess or bride.
Lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat. They are most commonly found in formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually, they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. Lapel types include notched, pointed, and shawl lapels.
Notched collars are the most common, are usually seen on business suits, and on more casual jackets like blazers and sport coats.
In Lolita Fashion, you can see them in Classic Lolita.
Pointed/Peaked lapels are more formal, and nearly always used on double-breasted jackets. But they also frequently appear on single-breasted ones.
In Lolita Fashion, you can see it in Ouji Lolita, Elegant Aristocrat Lolita, sometimes even in Sweet Lolita.
Shawl lapels are usually carried by tuxedos and mess jackets. Often associated with the Oscars, lavish galas, and James Bond, a shawl collar are an elegant choice. Unlike notched lapels, they feature the formality and refinement required for formal events. Their graceful and minimalist design is reminiscent of Victorian smoking jackets and Sherlock Holmes.
You can barely see the shawl lapel used in Lolita Fashion. When used, you tell a strong vibe of the Victorian era.
So, that's all of the 10 Most Popular Types of Collar in Lolita Fashion! I hope this blog will help you in choosing Lolita dresses or tops with different collars. Are you now more confident in distinguishing Lolita sub-styles just by its collar? Leave comments if you are!