Lolita Coordinates and How to Buy Lolita Dresses in a Budget for Lolita Beginners - DevilInspired Official Blog

20 Fabrics You Should Know in Lolita Fashion Market

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1. Gingham 


Gingham is a medium-weight balanced plain-woven fabric.

It's typically made of dyed cotton or cotton-blend fine yarns with white and brightly colored striped, checkered, or plaid patterns.

The weaving process also results in a striped or checkered design between the single-colored and white yarn.

With two colors combined, there can also be different levels of transparency in their tones. 





Due to its fresh, bright color and white plaid patterns, gingham fabric is often used as the main fabric in Sweet Lolita and Country-style Lolita dresses and blouses.

It can also be used as an accessory fabric to make things like bowknots, ribbons, bow-ties, and hems.

As shown in the image below, the theme of "Alice in Wonderland" is usually styled with black and white checkerboard elements or sometimes a black-blue checkerboard for a twist.



Gingham is the most common theme in Country-style Lolita.


2. Canvas

Canvasis an extremely durable plain-woven fabric commonly used to make bags and shoes. 

Canvas today are typically made of cotton or linen and sometimes of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). However, historically, it was made from hemp, a type of textile made from plant fibers such as Cannabis.

Unlike other heavy cotton fabrics such as denim, Canvas is plain weaved rather than twill weaved.

It also comes in two basic types: plain and duck. Duck canvas is derived from the Dutch word for cloth, "doek," and the threads in duck canvas are more tightly woven. 

Canvas is classified in the United States in two ways: by weight (ounces per square yard) and by a graded number system.


Canvas fabric is basically used in Ita Lolita (Poor Lolita). Because of its durability, it can be used to make cross-body bags, tote bags, and shoes.

Canvas shoes are very popular in the summer because they are light, comfortable, and easy to clean. Although canvas shoes are not typically paired with the stunning and elegant Lolita dresses, a cute canvas is appropriate for a lively and sweet Lolita dress.



3. Chiffon

Chiffonis a sheer fabric that is lightweight and well-balanced.

Chiffon is commonly woven from silk, cotton, viscose, rayon, or polyester and is made of hard twisted yarns.

Originally, chiffon was made entirely of silk. Nylon chiffon was invented in 1938, followed by polyester chiffon in 1958, becoming extremely popular due to its durabilityand low cost. When viewed through a magnifying glass, Chiffon resembles a fine net or mesh, lending it some transparency.

Because chiffon is a lightweight fabric that frays easily, it must be sewn with bound or French seams to prevent wear and tear.

Chiffon is smoother and more lustrous fabric than crêpe. Crepe Chiffon is an elegant, sheer fabric with a sand-like texture. This fabric is especially popular for party wear or evening wear.



Chiffon is a lightweight, flowy fabric with excellent breathability. Because of its soft and lightweight nature, it is well-known for summer blouses and dresses. Its lovely drape and transparency contribute to the garment's fashion and design.

When used as the main fabric of a Lolita dress, its gleaming appearance exudes luxury. Furthermore, the print on a chiffon gown is vibrant and will not fade quickly. The material is also very stretchy, so you won't be bothered by the lack of comfort.

On the other hand, it can also add dimension and volume to a garment when used as an accessory fabric, such as an overlay, ruffles, or other decorations.


Diamond Chiffon is the most popular fabric used in Lolita blouses. Moreover, it also appears in some luxurious Lolita dresses. This light fabric has a bright palette and can be very opulent.


4. Crêpe

Crêpe, also spelled as crepe or crape (from the French "crêpe"), is a crisp and crinkled three-dimensional silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric.

This gauze-like cotton fabric's iconic crimped look is achieved through hard twisting and alternating spinning techniques.

Crêpe is a lightweight to medium-weight fabric that can vary in weight. A light crepe is ideal for airy, flowing garments

Typically, the term "crape" refers to a type of fabric that is explicitly associated with mourning. 

Today, crepe is primarily used in high fashion and other types of decorative clothing design. Crepe, like chiffon, requires binding and seaming to prevent fraying.



Lolita garments rarely feature crepe as the primary fabric. Instead, it is commonly used as a sheer decorative fabric due to its distinct "wrinkled" texture.

It can also create fancy and flowy decorative designs such as overlays, ruffled parts of the sleeves, collars, and skirt hemlines like chiffon fabric. Chiffon is the most common type of crepe.


To be frank, tulleis more popular than a crepe when it comes to making overlays and other layered decorations. And for Lolita blouses, chiffonis more elegant than a crepe.As a result, there are only a few examples of Lolita garments using crepe.


When using a double crepe cloth, the foil printing process is usually used to create a luxurious and beautiful pattern in Gothic Lolita.

5. Organza


Organzais a thin, sheer fabric with a plain weave that is traditionally made of silk. 

Many modern organza fabrics are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon. Many mills in China weave silk organza along the Yangtze River and Zhejiang province. 

Organza is a more rigid fabric than chiffon. It wrinkles easily and adds volume to a dress. Because of its stiffness, it is a more natural choice for structured garments with more shape.

Organza is used for bridal wear and evening wear. Other uses include hair accessories, organza puffy sleeves, and petticoats' layers. 


Chiffon V.S Tulle V.S Organza

The main difference between them is their draping nature and texture.

Chiffonis smooth, slippery, and very drapeD, while organzais stiff and less draped.

Tulleis more draped than organza but stiffer than chiffon, and it has a soft net-like texture that is looser than the actual netting.


Organza fabric is often used in Lolita petticoats for its incredible stiffness. Some hair accessories and puffed sleeves are also made from organza fabric.


Tulle and organza fabric are often used to make Lolita petticoats and tulle dresses in our stores.


6. Chino


Chino cloth is a twill fabric that was originally made of 100% cotton.

Trousers, which are the most common item made from it, are usually referred to as chinos.

As of today, it can also be found in cotton-synthetic blends.

The fabric was created in China at first. The pure-cotton fabric is commonly used for chinos or trousers.

The traditional and most popular color is khaki (light brown). However, chinos are available in a variety of other colors.



Most Lolita garments are made of Chino, a typical twill fabric. Cotton-synthetic blended Chino fabric is popular in Lolita Fashion because it is soft, durable, suitable for all seasons.


Twill cloth is commonly seen in Military Lolita, Classic Lolita, and even Gothic Lolita for its durability and natural texture.



7. Denim

Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads.

This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing.

Denim comes in a variety of colors, but the most common is indigodenim, in which the warp thread is dyed while the weft thread remains white.

Because of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by blue warp threads, while the other side is dominated by white weft threads.

As a result, denim is primarily white on the inside.





In Lolita Fashion, Denim fabric is often used in daily Lolita dresses, skirts, or pants.


Casual Lolita often uses denim fabric to achieve a casual lolita vibe.


8. Herringbone


Herringbone, also known as broken twill weave, is a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric.

The break at reversal, which resembles a broken zigzag, distinguishes it from a plain weave.

Since it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish, the pattern is known as herringbone.

Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool and is one of the most popular fabrics used forsuits and outerwear.

Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern. 




Herringbone is often seen in Lolita Jacket. Herringbone jacquard is popular in Gothic Lolita for its unique texture can bring a vibe of myth and luxury.


Herringbone jacquard can create a delicate and luxurious texture in Elegant Gothic Lolita.



Tartans originated in woven wool, but now they are made in many other materials. 

The weft is woven in a simple twill, two over—two under the warp, advancing one thread at each pass. This results in visible diagonal lines where different colors intersect, giving the appearance of new colors blended from the original ones.

The resulting blocks of color repeat vertically and horizontally in a distinctive pattern of squares and lines. In the US, the terms plaid and tartan are used interchangeably.

Tartan is mainly associated with Scotland. Tartan is simply the woolen fabric style of plaid and used by the Scottish Highlanders. 

Tartan is most commonly and historically used on Scottish kilts. Thanks to its striking red color scheme,Royal Stewart is commercially the most widely produced tartan.




Tartan fabric is often related to Scottish plaid. In Lolita Fashion, Plaid cloth is popular in JK uniforms, Dark Kawaii, or Punk Lolita.


Pink and white plaid always give off a bitter-sweet vibe to the dresses. Other color schemes will also give other different styles. There are a lot of plaid kawaii garments in our stores.


10. Houndstooth


Houndstooth, also known as dogtooth, is a hound's tooth check inspired by the uneven shape of a hound dog's teeth.

It is a two-toned textile pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes.

Houndstooth is often black and white, although other colors are also used.

The classic houndstooth pattern is an example of a tessellation whose pattern is repeated at larger sizes.





Houndstooth is often used in winter Lolita coats as a unique patterned twill fabric. Especially those made from wool.


There are only a few Houndstooth patterned Lolita garments in our stores.


11. Satin



Satin fabric is shiny, soft, and elastic with a beautiful drape.

Satin fabrics have a soft, lustrous surface on one side and a duller surface on the other side.

It must be composed of long filament fibers – natural silk, polyester, nylon, or rayon – woven together with minimum interweaving.





Stain fabric is a luxurious fabric in Lolita garments for its excellent drape and shiny appearance.


This glassier fabric is popular in Gothic Lolita, Classic, Qi, and Wa Lolita.


12. Tweed


Tweed is a rough, woolen fabric with a soft, open, and flexible texture that resembles homespun but is more closely woven.

Tweed is a hot, hard-wearing fabric that is thick and stiff. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill, or herringbone structure.

Color effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before spinning.

Tweeds are an icon of traditional Scottish, Irish, Welsh, and English clothing and are ideal for casual outerwear due to their moisture resistance and durability.

Tweeds are designed to withstand harsh climates and are commonly worn for outdoor activities.



Tweed is warm to wear in cold weather. Almost all Lolita coats are tweed! They are both cute and comfortable.


Lolita coats in our stores are generally plain weave tweed. 


13. Flannel

Flannel is a soft woven fabric of various weights. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarnbut is now often made from wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber.

Flannel is commonly used intartan clothing, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

Flannel can be brushed to for extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process involving rubbing the fabric with a fine metal brush to raise fine fibers from the loosely spun yarns and form a nap on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, the softness comes from the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. 

Flannel can be woven in either a twill weave or plain weave. The weave is often concealed by napping on one or both sides. It is napped once after weaving, then bleached, dyed, or otherwise treated, and napped again.



Flannel fabric is soft and warm to wear; it can give a plush feeling to the Lolita overwear. They can also be used to make plush Lolita dresses, bottoms, and accessories.


Lolita garments that use flannel fabric always remind you of cute and furry animals.


14. Velvet

Velvet is a woven, tufted fabric with evenly distributed cut lines and a short, dense pile. It gives it a uniquely soft feel. By extension, the word velvet means "as smooth like velvet."

Velvet can be made from natural or synthetic fibers. It was originally made from silk. Pure silk velvet is rare today because it's costly. Most velvet that is marketed as silk velvet combines both silk and rayon. Synthetic velvet can be made from polyester, nylon, viscose, or rayon.

Because of its unusual softness and appearance and its high cost of production, velvet has often been associated with nobility.

Velvet is made on a special loom known as a double cloth, which simultaneously produces two velvet pieces. This luxurious fabric can be woven in any weave structure (plain, satin, or twill) with an extra set of warp threads sheared to create a soft feel.



Velvet, the lustrous fabric in Lolita Fashion, is frequently used to create noble-looking Lolita garments. Although some Lolitas believed that this type of glassier fabric made the dress less expensive, velvet Lolita garments exude a dark and elegant vibe. As a result, it appeared frequently in Gothic Lolita. 

Besides that, velvet is warm to wear, and a lot of nightgowns in our stores are made of it.


As the images below show, a velveteen dress reminds you of a noble lady.


15. Corduroy




Corduroy is a striped ridged form of velvet fabric.

This strong, durable fabric has a rounded cord, rib, or wale surface formed by cut-pile yarn.

The back of the goods has a plain or a twill weave.

Corduroy is made from any major textile fibers and with one warp and two fillings.




Corduroy is like a heavy velvet with a rib on the fabric's surface. It's very durable and warm to wear. It can be used to make dresses for cold winter.


A corduroy dress or outwear will remind you of a girl who is crossing the cold forest. Under the protection of corduroy, rain and thorns can not touch her.


16. Jersey Knit




Jersey is a soft, stretchy, knit fabric originally made from wool.

Today, the jersey is also made from cotton, cotton blends, and synthetic fibers.

The right side of the jersey knit fabric is smooth with a single slight rib knit, while the jersey's backside is piled with loops.




Jersey knit is often seen inLolita cardigans, sweaters, scarves, and winter gloves.



17. Lace





Lace is a delicate, decorative fabric made from yarn or thread, characterized by open web-like designs and complex patterns created by looping, interlacing, knitting, or other different methods.

The lace fabric was originally made from silk and linen, but today cotton thread and synthetic fibers are both used.

The lace fabric was originally made from silk and linen, but cotton thread and synthetic fibers are used today.



Lace is popular in Lolita Fashion, you can see beautiful lace designs in almost every elegant or sweet Lolita garment.


As the most frequently used accessories, Lace is almost seen in every Lolita garment, especially in princess-style or bridal-themed Lolita dresses.


18. Cotton Jacquard


Jacquard Fabric is a highly textured fabric with woven patterns rather than embroidered, printed, or stamped onto the fabric.

Jacquard weave is a very popular pattern decoration. It could be cotton jacquard, skill jacquard, satin jacquard, chiffon jacquard, or TR. jacquard.

TR fabric refers to Terry Rayon, a polyester, and viscose blend yarn fabric.

Because the patterns are woven by pre-dyed yarns, jacquard-woven designs last longer and are less prone to bleed than digital prints. 

Jacquard weave can even create a raised pattern by a unique jacquard weave process.



Jacquard weave is very popular in cotton Lolita garments. The print is more vibrant and not easy to fade. 


You can even have a solid color Lolita dress with a detained jacquard pattern as the first image shown below.


19. Elastic Cloth/ Stretch Cloth


Stretch cloth isprimarily made of spandex and polyester; spandex is the main reason for the stretch cloth's elasticity.

Stretch fabric is wear-resistant and does not wrinkle easily. It is a low-cost material. The cost will be less than that of cotton fabric.

However, it has poor color resistance to moisture; dark fabrics fade quickly in the wash.

In fact, garments made of stretch fabric will be a little hot in the summer because the breathability of this fabric is poor.




Stretch cloth is suitable for all-weather, and it can be used in Lolita dresses, tops, bottoms, and other accessories.


Lolita dresses using stretch cloth usually have digital prints which are very bright and vivid.


20. Slub


Slub is typically used to describe a fabric made of hemp and cotton fiber.

It has a cool and smooth texture, similar to linen.

Slubs can also be produced entirely of cotton. This technique yields a textural effect in the form of bamboo knots using regular yarn draws and picks.

All-cotton slub is softer, more breathable, and less prone to stretching. It has properties that ordinary fabrics do not have. The print on this fabric does not bleed easily and is very soft and stretchy to wear.




Summer Lolita dresses often use slub fabrics for their soft and fantastic feel. 


Slub fabric is popular in Summer Lolita Garments.